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Following in Lewis and Clark’s Footsteps
by John Lund
Take a history cruise to Astoria, Oregon and see what the fuss is about
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Nearly 200 years ago, Meriwether Lewis and William Clark’s Corps of Discovery paddled their dugout canoes down the Columbia River on the last leg of their quest to reach the Pacific Ocean.
Their difficult, often dangerous journey took them 18 months and, in late 1805, they became the first Americans to cross the continent by land. They spent that first wet winter of 1805-1806 at Ft. Clatsop, near present day Astoria, Oregon.
They weren’t the first white men to make it to the region though; that distinction goes to Capt. Robert Gray, who discovered the Columbia River and sailed inland as far as Tongue Point in May 1792. However, it was Lewis and Clark’s journey, taken at the request of President Thomas Jefferson, that led the way for future development and laid the groundwork that would eventually see the coast-to-coast expansion of the United States.
My own reasons for coming to Astoria weren’t nearly as adventurous as those of Lewis and Clark’s. As Northwesterners, we’d heard much about Astoria but never visited; therefore, we wanted to see the city that is about to celebrate the Lewis and Clark Bicentennial in 2005 and 2006.
What we found was a delightful Victorian town of 10,000 -- one that I think is going to be an important destination for thousands of visitors, many of whom are expected to follow the Lewis and Clark Trail to its western end during the celebration.
While most folks will make the journey by land, I think that with some preparation, the best way to get to Astoria is in true Lewis and Clark fashion, by boat.
The Basics of Crossing the Columbia Bar
A complete how-to on crossing the Columbia Bar is beyond the scope of this article -- but I can give you the basics.
A bar is a point of shallow water formed by sediment dropped by a river when the water slows down at its mouth. When prevailing westerly winds push ocean swells toward the coast, they rise up on the bar where they meet river water pushing in the opposite direction. Depending on the weather and tide, the swells can get taller and closer together and the waves confused.
This area is hazardous and must be taken seriously. The best precautionary measure you can take is to learn more about it:
* Read the guidebook “U.S. Coast Pilot 7: California, Oregon, Washington and Hawaii.”
* Study and use NOAA Chart #18521.
* Download and read the document “Crossing the Columbia Bar” at: www.marinebd.osmb.state.or.us/Library/ColumbiaMouth.pdf. * Contact the Cape Disappointment-area Coast Guard using VHF Channel 16 for crossing conditions, advice and assistance.
* Be aware of the rough bar advisory signs and (even if the signs are not up), do not cross if conditions appear too rough or on an ebb tide (outgoing tide).
Getting to Astoria
Once you’ve crossed the bar, follow the well-marked Columbia River Channel to Astoria, located near mile 14. Follow the Lower and Upper Desdemona Shoal and then make the turn at Point Tansy onto the Tansy Range at about mile 10.
You will now be facing the 4-mile-long Astoria-Megler Bridge, connecting Oregon and Washington. A quarter of a mile before the bridge, at green buoy 35A, you will see the new breakwater of Port of Astoria’s West Basin Marina to starboard.
Earlier this year, the original 335-slip marina gained an additional 29 slips in the 50- to 60-foot range, taking the overall capacity to well over 400, if side and lineal ties are utilized. The basin is dredged from 6- to 14-foot depths and can handle vessels up to 100 feet.
The opening is between two steel bulkheads marked with flashing red and green lights. NOAA Chart #18521 covers the Pacific Ocean to Harrington Point and is a must for navigating this region.
Visiting boaters are asked to moor at the first six 30-foot slips between docks B and C. The new 50- to 60-foot slips will come online late this year. Harbor staff monitors VHF channels 16 and 74.
You can also expect the new harbormaster’s office to be relocated on the west side of the marina to a new port service building in 2005.
At the docks, you will find 30- and 50-amp power and potable water. Washrooms, showers and laundry facilities are nearby. The fuel dock has been relocated to the northwest corner of the marina. Pumpouts and oil waste dumps are available.
Although East Basin Marina is primarily used for commercial vessels, there are transient slips available. Some visitors prefer this basin, located at mile 15.6, as it is quieter, except for some sea lions that hang around there.
New Development Under Way
At this point, we should mention that the entire waterfront managed by Port of Astoria is experiencing massive change under the port’s Central Waterfront Master Plan initiated in June 2001. Many changes coming into effect between the years of 2004 and 2006 will be of great benefit to visiting and local boaters.
Basically, the plan outlines development of the waterfront in two districts: West of Portway/Port Street will house the Marine Service District; and east of Portway/Port Street will be the Marina District, which will encompass the West Mooring Basin and will be the area of most interest to boaters visiting Astoria in the near future.
By the time visitors arrive at the West Basin in 2005, construction will likely be under way on a new conference center at the head of the docks -- the reason the fuel dock has been moved to the west side of the marina. By then, two new waterfront hotels will also have opened.
Good news for transient and Columbia River-based boat owners needing maintenance work: In June, the port took delivery of an 88-ton Travelift for the Pier 3 haulout and boat yard.
Port of Astoria’s executive director Peter Gearin gave us a tour of the port’s waterfront projects.
“Astoria is enjoying a very exciting renaissance. Exposure due to its significance in the Lewis and Clark Bicentennial has put the area on the map, and visitors are intrigued by the history, architecture and physical beauty of the place,” Gearin said.
“As a partner in this revitalization, Port of Astoria has invested in infrastructure and amenities that are important and attractive to visitors who come by boat.”
When in Astoria
Despite the fact that Port of Astoria is developing the city’s waterfront into a modern facility, you don’t have to go far to get in touch with Astoria’s history.
From West Basin Marina, cross the street and hop on the Astoria Riverfront Trolley ($1 for one ride; $2 for an all-day pass) and ride 3 miles to the end of the line at East Basin Marina. Fare includes narration of the local history and attractions.
The Number 300 trolley has been making this run since May 1999 and is operated by a happy bunch of volunteers who put thousands of hours into the restoration of the car built in 1913 by the American Car Co. of St. Louis, Missouri.
Columbia River Maritime Museum
One of the trolley’s key stops is the Columbia River Maritime Museum. Make sure you visit the museum; it is a national maritime treasure where you can learn about marine transportation from the days of dugout canoes to the present.
A 12-minute film introduces the visitor to life and commerce on the Columbia River and shows the dangerous work of the Columbia Bar and River Pilots, a group of 20 pilots that assist boaters across the Columbia Bar. You can command the bridge of a World War II warship or witness a 44-foot motor lifeboat on film making a rescue on a huge wave.
Outside, you can board the lightship Columbia, a National Historic Landmark that once guided ships to safety at the mouth of the Columbia River.
The West’s Oldest Settlement
Astoria is named after John Jacob Astor, the New York financier who sent fur traders to the region aboard the ship Tonquin to establish Fort Astoria in 1811.
Development came quickly in the 1800s as the West opened up and the city became known as the “Little San Francisco of the Northwest.”
Victorian homes cover the steep hills above town. Many of them have been turned into museums or bed and breakfast establishments. The most famous home of them all is Flavel House at 441 Eighth St. It is operated as a museum by the Clatsop County Historical Society.
Astoria Column
For a real overview of Astoria history, get yourself to the top of Coxcomb Hill to see and climb the Astoria Column.
Erected in 1926, the column is a monument to history itself and is the only one of its kind in the world. It displays 14 significant chronological events in the history of Astoria in a mural that wraps around the 125-foot-high structure in an upward spiral.
I huffed and puffed my way up the 164-step spiral staircase to the viewing platform and was struck by the 360-degree view. It was truly awe-inspiring.
Ft. Clatsop
The original stockade the 33-member party of the Lewis and Clark expedition built to shelter themselves from the incessant West Coast rains disintegrated long ago, but you can still see how these hardy folk spent the winter of 1805-1806 at Ft. Clatsop.
In 1955, a replica of the fort, named in honor of the local Clatsop Indians, was built near the original site south of Astoria, and today it is part of the National Park System.
Within the walls of the stockade, the Corps of Discovery rested and prepared to make their return trek to St. Louis. They spent the winter learning from the Clatsop Indians, making moccasins and buckskin clothing, storing food and preparing their maps and journals.
To make your visit to Ft. Clatsop and other Lewis and Clark sites easier, local transit systems operated the Lewis and Clark Explorer Shuttle for the remainder of the 2004 summer season into 2005 and 2006. There are several pickup points along the Astoria Riverfront Trolley route.
In Conclusion
In short, if you like history, you will love Astoria.
It is a community proud of its roots, and it shows in how they’ve preserved the best of the past. Yet, at the same time, Port of Astoria and other agencies are providing modern improvements that will encourage boaters and other visitors to come and share in the rich heritage begun 200 years ago by Lewis and Clark.
So, join them -- it’s a journey worth taking.
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This article first appeared in the October 1, 2004 issue of Sea Magazine. All or parts of the information contained in this article might be outdated. |
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